And while thin ropes a boon for sport and alpine climbers, trad climbers by and large should still not be cavalier about matching ropes to routes, rock, and the likely task at hand.ġ1mm ropes are clearly dead, but today's crop of sub-10 single ropes are still not sufficient in any respect to be replacing 10-10.5mm ropes for most serious trad climbing endeavors. If you are using a sub-10 rope with a grigri you better be belaying like the grigri is just an ATC. Black Diamond ATC Guide Black Diamond has another belay device known as the ATC Guide. When the brake strand is used on the side with the grooves, it provides more friction for braking the rope. Most devices (except possibly the Pivot) dont lower well in guide mode. From my perspective they are specialized pieces of gear and not for beginners or new intermediate climbers. The rope is light, with the distinction of being the first rope to weigh less than 50 grams per meter, according to the companys website. Belay devices like the Black Diamond ATC XP have grooves added to one side. If the grooves are too wide, the rope can twist and pinch in guide mode, or worse, actually change position and not lock at all. But don't kid yourself, sub-10 ropes wear significantly faster, stretch more, cut easier, and are more difficult to rap. Yeah, today they make lighter gear and ropes are part of that so you can buy really thin ropes. 'pretty nice margin' -in my findings the slots are much wider and smoother with the ropes that I use, the same ropes I fight through a reverso or a guide. 'not that it matters its a belay device, but grams do count in the mountains' and it is noticeably lighter. I'm an old guy like Bill, and have used about every belay device ever made it's not very often that I'm happy with one, this one I am.Īlso a note about rope size. Much lighter than a reverso or an atc guide. I can't comment on how well it works for belaying seconds off anchors because I don't do that. I've used it for 7.8 - 9.8 thin ropes and my main complaint is that they don't make a larger one for normal ropes. It doesn't lock up when belaying, doesn't chatter when rappelling, and just 'feels right' in both modes which is rare. Ropes thickness used for the lead and top rope falls were: EICA own top rope 9.1mm Beal 8.5mm (single rope). In a nutshell, the Kong Ghost is smooth both belaying and rappelling. Diamond ATC Alpine Guide Petzl Reverso 4.
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